Cordoba

Week 4 in Argentina. So many cities to see, each one a little different from the next. Our overnight bus experience was amazing in comparison with the border holdup bus. We had executive cama, my seat went all the way back and they gave me an alfajore for breakfast. Cassie got really sick when we got here, so unfortunately she had to sit out the first 2 days in Cordoba. The first day me and Kenzie went to a town 45 minutes outside of Cordoba called Alta Gracia, which is the town where Che Guavara grew up. I didn't know too much about him aside from his picture on revolution shirts and that he wrote motorcycle diaries (which by the way thanks a lot Kindle, i can't read until it comes along with a friend from the US!). The house he grew up in was turned into a museum and showcased photos and stories of his life, the famous motorcycle and letters exchanged between him and Fidel Castro. It was really interesting and I wish he hadnt been killed in Bolivia because he was an incredible, motivational person. Day 2 Kenzie and I went to the Condor national park 2 hours outside Cordoba. So basically since I got here all I did was go to other places. The hike was okay, we spotted some condors and vultures and I was told by a group of 12 year olds on a class trip that my Spanish sucks and Bin Laden isn't really dead. That was an interesting convo. I was supposed to go paragliding the last day so I extended my stay another night but it turned out that it wasn't windy enough to go. I'll have to save that activity for Bolivia where I'm sure it will be cheaper anyway. We spent day 3 exploring the city, went to a cool modern art museum that had a cafeteria that doubled as a club, and found the bicentennial park with 200 multicolored rings to represent the last 200 years since I'm supposing something must have been founded in 1810. Since we extended our stay and they had no more rooms, we got upgraded to an apartment downstairs with a guy from Germany, Stefan. We cooked and had pirates of the caribbean movie night and for a minute I remembered what it was like to have an actual place to call my own, not a bunkbed surrounded by 10 other drunk people coming in and out every hour. 

I was even able to do exercises in the morning which was necessary since I've been enjoying Argentinean chocolate way too much. Thank god I'll be in Bolivia soon lol. On the last day i managed to play Frogger through the streets on my 3rd failed attempt at a run. Way too many people, cars and stray dogs. Cassie and I took a bus to a Super Walmart I passed on the way in, which i was way too excited about! It wasn't nearly as good as the ones in the states but they did give samples :)
I managed to get fit in for a massage at the only place in Cordoba which was always fully booked, and got to relieve some of the stress of wearing my ginormous backpack every few days. Sadly, this was my last night with Cassie and Kenzie until Bolivia, so we bid farewell at the bus station and now I head back to Buenos Aires (and hopefully Uruguay) for a week or so. I'm nearly done with Argentina, after BA I have Iguazu and Salta, and then off to the Atacama Desert/Salt Flats.

Mendoza, the town of wine, wine and ...vino

Back in Argentina!
Our lovely overnight bus ride from Valpo turned into the biggest nightmare ever - we got held up at the border for over 5 hours, because the border closes at night and then we were the 4th bus to be let through. By the time we got to Mendoza we were complete zombies, and passed out. Woke up totally refreshed, explored a little and took it easy. Love being back in Argentina, the food in the supermarkets is better and I found amazing salads, no fried food, no empanadas - a little taste of home again!

Our first full day in Mendoza about 15 people from the hostel all went out to rent bikes to do a bike ride tour of the vineyards. It was SO much fun. The wineries are about 45 minutes outside of Mendoza, and you ride to one, do a tasting, get back on the bike, ride to the next one, shot of absinthe (nice surprise!), back on the bike, etc etc for the whole day long. The people from our hostel were great, and I had an amazing time. I am not even a fan of red wine, but it is the main thing in this region and I found a few I really liked!  On the tour I did a tasting at the museum, then a olive oil/chocolate/absinthe tasting, then rode to a fancy vineyard that I think was called Taluche, then to a beer garden for lunch, and then to one last winery. 

The next day, we went on a sunset horseback ride. I had a beautiful horse that I named Maurice that had no interest in listening to anything I told him to do. It was cool going through the mountains, the only rides I´ve done have been on the beach or on camels at the Bronx Zoo.  After the horse ride we went back to a lodge and had my first Argentinian asado. It was every type of meat imaginable, and even though I usually turn my head at pork, I tried everything because I think its considered rude not to. We had giant vats of wine, and we drank and drank and then our guide, Diego, took out a guitar and we all sat around by the fire and sang for hours. It was a perfect night, and despite the weather still being on the cold side, I really enjoyed the whole experience. We had a night bus on the last day, so we spent the morning wandering Mendoza and drinking our little complimentary bottles of  wine from Empedrado Hostel.

The town of Mendoza itself surprised me, because I was expecting a quaint little town with wineries on every corner. The town was massive, with lots of junk stores that looked like they were selling used clothes everywhere, and all of the major activities are outside of the town. But the people I met were great, and the excursions we did were fun and while I didn´t feel like I needed longer than my 3.5 days in Mendoza, I had a great time.  It´s getting harder to write in the blog as the trip goes on. I´ve been taking more night buses and passing out for the night (or sitting up at the stupid borders), and at the hostel I´m with people and then too tired to write at night. After the next town my friends Cassie and Kenzie that I´ve been traveling with are heading up to Salta and I head east back to Buenos Aires and Uruguay, so possibly I´ll have more time to write again although I´m going to miss my travel buddies!!

Valparaiso

An hour and a half from Santiago is a town called Valparaiso - a place that reminds me of a cross between San Francisco and La Boca in BA. The streets are all up on massive hills, and the buildings are all brightly colored and covered with beautiful artistic graffiti. We got there and made friends at the hostel and all went out to dinner at a place called Mastadome, the wooly mammoth, which looked like Rainforest Cafe with giant dinosaurs and animals hanging off the walls. It was a nice change from the veggies I'd been making for the last few nights in Santiago to try to save some money on food. It's not hard to want to eat out every night in Chile when I don't really like anything but the candy anywhere.

The first full day in Valparaiso we walked around all day, taking millions of pictures of the artwork and buildings and marveling in the adorableness of this town. On the other side, there are a lot of sheisters around trying to steal your bags and run away with your passport, so the people take away from the scene a little bit. Two things I learned in Valpo were that the farther you get from cities, the less likely it is that you find English speakers in restaurants and hostels, and 2 - don't trust Lonely Planet.

The most recommended restaurant not only didnt exist, but no one had ever heard of it so it must have been closed for quite some time. We came across a policemen parade with cops from all over Chile. My favorites were the ones from the southern region who had skis in one hand, guns in the other. At the parade we ran into Sophie, who I met at the volcano in Pucon. I still think it's funny how I can be all the way in Chili and run into people I know! It's happened 3 times so far, once at a hostel, once at an Internet cafe and once in the street. Back at the hostel the employees were cooking compleados, which are hot dogs covered in every condiment imaginable - ketchup, mustard, mayo, salsa, avocado - probably other things too but it was piled so high I really couldn't tell. We all split one and it was interesting, but I was happy to have a third and not a whole thing. Almost a month in to the trip started to take it's toll, and my tiredness and hunger have officially both caught up with me. I slept until nearly 9 both days in Valpo, which is so late for me!

Our second day here we took a hostel group trip to the beach at Vina del Mar, a 15 minute train ride away. It was only about 15 degrees (yes I speak in Celsius now since America is the ONLY country who uses Farenheight), so we couldn't lay on the beach but it was nice to walk along for a few hours. Everything is really beautiful here, and I can imagine it being a really nice beach in actual beach weather. I seem to like to go everywhere off season so I never get the full experience of it, but I think for the second half of my trip (Bolivia, Ecuador) by coming now I'm avoiding the rainy season in those places.
The 8 of us from Hostel Casa Valpo had a great 3 hour walk, and finished out brief stint in Chile at a restaurant called color cafe. We are now on the night bus to Mendoza, which crosses the Argentinean border at 1 AM and gets to Mendoza at 6Am, so there will be no sleep for me tonight. But then I will have 4 horseback riding, winery filled days in Mendoza so it will be worth it!

Santiago, Chile

2.5 days in Santiago and I feel like I've been here for a week. It's the first place I've been to since my 2 day stint in BA that was a city and not a town with one main street.  We got in early Easter Sunday after an overnight bus from Pucon. I'm not going to rehash the events of my last day in Pucon because they involved monsoons, mud, a ruined bike ride and the closure of all laundry places, therefore resulting in the loss of my one warm semi clean article of clothing.
Everything was great once we got to Santiago though. We had breakfasts #2 and 3, and were off. I´ve learned that if I eat as much of the bad bread and jelly in the morning, I save $ on food for the rest of the day. I am still way over budget for month 1, so for the last few days I´ve been trying to be extra careful!

We climbed up a hill in Santa Lucia park that had some pretty nice views of the city. We found a market where Kenzie and I found adorable rings. We went to the big church in the Plaza de Armas for Easter Sunday, where I was accosted outside by an old senile Chilean man. We found the food market, which was more of a fish market, and after fainting 5 times from the smell managed to walk around and found sugared dried sweet potatoes - my new favorite snack! We were all then accosted by a squeaking mime, who tried to steal Kenzie´s camera and kissed us so we had white face paint on our faces all day.

Santiago is a big but manageable city. Every street is lined with beautiful trees. There are parks everywhere and statues and fountains - you can spend days just wandering around exploring it.  Day 1 we were exhausted and hung around the hostel, Cassie and I decided the best way to teach ourselves Spanish was by reading children's books. Which conceptually is a smart idea, however the book we found was a tongue twister nursery rhyme, so not a good starting point. We opted for Alvin and the chipmunks with Spanish subtitles instead.
Day 2, we headed to the Santo Domingo market at the end of town. It was a textile, artisinal and jewelry market that also sold chickens and rabbits. Not sure what the birds were for, but the market was a really nice place to walk around. We walked through practically the whole city of Santiago coming home, and I even found a froyo shop that had sweet potato froyo! At least I think it was sweet potato, I can't be too sure. But it was delish. Then we went into the Bella Vista barrio, on a 2 hour walk up the mountain to San Cristobal,

which is the highest point in Santiago. The view from the top is interesting because Santiago is surrounded by mountains, but you can't really see them through all the smog. Luckily there was a cable car to take down because that was way too much walking for one day. On the cable car I learned the word for backpack, mochilla, and was able to tell a girl that I liked her Hannah Montana backpack in Spanish.  Makinng progress!
When we got back we went to a local Chilean bar for terramotes, or earthquakes. These are a traditional Chilean drink of pineapple ice cream, Fernet and white wine. It's probably as strong as a red bull vodka, and tasted a little bit awful but it was fun, and there were accordion players at the bar and the locals befriended our group and it was so much fun! There was the option of getting an aftershock to follow, which is a smaller version of the same drink, but one of them killed us and I definitely couldn't handle any more. We had drunken empanadas (not quite Pizza 33 but it did the trick) and passed out. I was staying in a mixed dorm which for some reason meant I was the only girl again for both nights, so the boys were all out when I got home and noone was able to laugh at me for passing out before 1 am.

On the last morning in Santiago, we went to the Bellas Artes and Pre-Colombian art museums. A famous Chilean poet died yesterday, and his open casket funeral was being held in the museum. It was my first time seeing a dead person, and it was a totally strange experience. We took samples of his poetry and bought a Spanish dictionary to decipher it on the bus rides. Now we're on our way to Valparaiso, a town 1.5 hours from Santiago by the beach. It's warmer than Santiago, an apparently NY hit 70 degrees today, so to avoid getting jealous I have to go to the beach town :) Easter Island is definitely out since I checked into flights and its $1400 to go there! Flights can be $300 if you book in advance which I definitely couldnt, so this will be another day, another trip...

Pucon, Chile

Today I think the toll of travelling is hitting me. I really liked Bariloche and left earlier than I should have. My bus ride to Pucon I thought was 7 hours, but it turned out to be 11. I got to the hostel and there was no one there for half an hour to check me in. Then when the guy came he said tomorrow is going to be the only nice day all week and Its going to rain the rest of the week, and it's too late to reserve anything for tomorrow. I'm hungry, dirty, tired and cranky and the wifi doesnt work. I went to a restaurant around the corner and the whole menu is in Spanish and I can't make out any of the words for some reason. I think Chilean spanish is different from Argentinian Spanish. There's one weird Swiss boy in my hostel that kept trying to talk to me but I was too cranky to maintain a conversation. I'm also in a mixed dorm, top bunk. Only girl among 5 obnoxious Belgian boys, who took all the lockers and will probably steal my money in my sleep And the  I hate top bunks by the way! I want to change hostels but don't even know where to start looking. Oh and I ordered roasted potatoes which just came to my table and look like fried knishes with hot sauce. The currency is in hundreds, $1 USD = $496 Chilean dollars. So I don't have the slightest clue what I'm paying for anything without using the currency convertor on my iPhone which I'm too scared to take out! As I sit here eating my knishes I just realized it's fried bread. Ew. And it took my 2 of them to figure that out. I really wish I'd stayed in Bariloche with all my nice friends and waited til they were ready to come here!

Day 2 Pucon, April 19
Ok, calm again. They were able to get me in the group for the volcano this morning. I woke up at 6 and 2 people in my hostel were also going, so they shared their breakfast with me since I had none and showed me where to go. Once I slept off my hissyfit from last night, I felt much better and was ready to tackle Volcano Villarica. When I got there it was just as the sun rose, which always makes things even better, especially when the sky is every shade of pink and yellow you cab imagine over a backdrop of volcanoes.

The hike up started off okay. They gave me snow pants and hiking boots and a jacket to wear, since as always I was highly prepared. The clothes were all 8 sizes too big since I was a last minute add on the to tour, but I was glad to have them since it was freezing on the volcano and the wind hitting you on the way up could have easier blown me off the damn thing. After the first hour of sidestepping my way up over the snow, the ground turns to ice so we put on our clampons and hiked (slowly. Very slowly.) the last 3 hours on a glacier with the clampons and ice pick as my only defense against the volcano! Now I love to hike, and I ran through Tierra del Fuego, Fitz Roy and the accidental wrong way up Cerro Otto no problem. But this volcano was a monster, and absolutely the hardest thing I've ever done. It puts all 100 miles of the NY Century, even the Bronx part, to shame. Once we got to the top we got to look in over the top of the volcano. The sulfur stung like hell and I couldn't see or breathe but I loved it. And the view!

We were so high over the clouds, surrounded by whiteness everywhere you couldn't tell where the clouds ended and the snowy mountain began. After eating lunch, which involved people pitying me for not having one and giving me random cookies and pieces of banana and mate tea, it was time to go down. Down is supposed to be easier than up because you slide your way down the mountain. Which conceptually sounds fun unless you're a wuss like me, who couldn't figure out how to stop and slid right into the guy in front of me. That did it and I refused to slide anymore, so the guide Leonardo my lifesaver somehow dragged me the whole 2.5 hours down. It was physically and mentally exhausting and I loved every decide of it!
Back at the hostel the obnoxious Belgian boys checked out so I can sleep in peace tonight. The hostel owner said the next few days will indeed be awful weather but if I do water activities it won't matter. And the best part is I can do one that starts at 2 so I can sleep in tomorrow. Hooray!

Pucon day 3
It ended up being a beautiful day so I went to the national park for the day. I thought it was going to be a nice leisurely stroll but it turned out to be a 4.5 hour hike up through muddy hills. I might never have a day to just relax after all! I ran into 2 of the guys from Holland that were on my volcano tour, so I hiked with them. The park was really nice, beautiful bamboo and jungle trees everywhere surrounding lakes and waterfalls. When I got back there was a new girl at the hostel that I really liked, and then all my friends from Bariloche came and are staying at the hostel which I'm SO happy about!
We are all heading to Santiago together on Saturday too! It was our hostel owners birthday so we went and picked up vodka and celebrated at the hostel. I accidentally left my bag of vodka at the grocery store, but was able to successfully go back in the morning and tell them in my still awful spanish and got it back for tonight! We all drank and played multi-language scattegories ( travel scatts was a great idea to bring along on the trip!) and it was so much fun.

Day 4, the whole hostel took a trip 2 hours away to thermal springs called thermos geometricas. It was about 17 different hot springs  in all different shapes connected together. The weather was freezing and monsooning, but in the water it was ok and there was a little shelter at the front with a fireplace to warm up and get coffee and soup at the end.
The springs were so necessary to relax in after all this hiking. My whole body is suffering still from the volcano, my arms are so sore from carrying the ice pick around for 6 hours. While we were at the fireplace, a mouse from the roof fell into the fire and committed suicide. I hate mice and watched the little guy char himself in the flames. It was a great day despite the weather. Tonight were going to make mexi guacamole and tacos and play more and drink at the hostel. I love Pucon and don't want to leave here! I'm glad I have 2 more days!

Bariloche, the chocolate capital of Argentina

At long last, after 32 hours on 3 differed buses, I made it to Bariloche. It's such a pretty town, with all of the shops and restaurants concentrated on a couple main blocks surrounding Lago Nahuel Huapi. I got in pretty late, met 2 nice girls in the dorm (more Europeans, British and Irish), and we went and got some vodka sodas and hung out at the hostel. I was very happy to learn that the bottle of smirnoff only cost $12. I ran into Joel, the Australian friend we had met on the glacier. The people at TangoInn downtown are nicer than I met in El Chalten, and I like this town better already. The weather is still cold, so I'll probably stay here shorter than I thought since rafting and kayaking are probably no go's.

On my first full day, I went with Joel and 2 Israeli guys from my hostel to rent mountain bikes and go on this very steep, very hard bike ride called the Circuito Chico.
The whole thing was only 20 miles, but took us about 4 hours to do. I thought I was a good biker, but I had to get off to walk the bike at least 4 times. I guess all those spin classes weren't that necessary after all! In the middle of the ride we stopped at a Swiss village called Colonia Suiza for lunch. We ate at a restaurant that doubled as a treehouse. There were fairies hanging from the ceiling, incense burning from the center tree trunk and trippy lights everywhere. Best place ever! The menu only seemed to have fondue and boars head, so one pot of chocolate fondue later we were ready to go. After we got back we walked around the town, which is the chocolate capital or Argentina. I have never seen so many locally made artisinal chocolate shops. I found Mamuska, which is supposed to be the best one, and saw that inside they shops not only have every flavor combination of chocolates imaginable, but they also decorate the store so beautifully. This one had tons of winnie the pooh decorations, and those little Russian dolls that go one into another. The chocolate shops all have little cafes you can eat at too, but after the fondue I opted out ( I'm sure ill be back tomorrow!)

When I got back our 3 girl dorm turned into 8, so I made new friends (Lynn, Belgium and Gabby, Hungary), and went to this great Mexi place for dinner. It was the first real meal I've eaten in days and I was thrilled. We even made it in time for happy hour with 5 minutes to spare, so $2.50 margaritas all around :) Bariloche is definitely one of my favorite towns in Argentina so far.  To end my night wonderfully, I spoke to Caryn and Melissa today, trying to coordinate meet-ups.  Melissa is most likely coming to meet me in Bolivia, which will be so cool because Bolivia looks like such an amazing country with so many unique places and I think we'll have so much fun! And I reworked my schedule to meet Caryn in Cusco for a few days. I hadn't planned on going back but I realize to go from Bolivia to Ecuador it's not so far to go through Peru. I want to see Caryn, and Peru was the trip that started my South American obsession. The timing is actually perfect because she is going during the big Semanta Sana festival which Becca and I missed by 1 day our last time in Cusco. I am so excited about seeing my friends, because as much fun as I'm having, I miss my friends and family so much!
Day 2 of Bariloche I went with 2 girls from my hostel, Cassie and Kenzie from Australia) to El Bolson, a hippie town 2 hours south of here. They have a feria artisinal fair on Saturdays, which was mainly handmade jewelry and things like incense burners, gnomes and fairy sculptures and pressed flowers made into clocks and things. It was a cute place to spend the day, but the town was small and I'm glad I didnt end up sleeping there. When we came back Cassie and Kenzie share my love for chocolate, so we went to this chocolate shop called Rapa Nui which was like a mini version of Willy Wonka. They had everything I've ever dreamed of! We had hot chocolate and bought some chocolate dulce leche for dessert, and I'm already excited to go back tomorrow to try some of the ice cream after hiking! The days are so tiring (and cold) that I had planned to go out tonight but the thought of leaving my warm hostel bed sounds so unappealing. To me, vacation is about seeing things, keeping busy all day, 8 hour hikes followed by massive amounts of chocolate and sleeping in right now! I will go out in the next town that hits a temperature above 30 degrees :) Its actually a good thing that I didn´t go out because I heard that it was a total mess at the bars. When you go inside they give you a red ticket that means you have to buy a drink. When you buy a drink they give you a green ticket which means you can leave the bar. Apparently people were drunk and lost their green tickets, and the bouncer wouldn´t let them leave. One girl tried to leave and the bouncer tried to stop her and she ended up getting hit somehow. Even more reason I´m glad I was in my nice warm bed last night!!!

Day 3, I slept in, and when I woke up the room was empty so I was even able to get in some pilates exercises (finally!) I went with Cassie and TJ from New Hampshire to Cerro Otto, another hike. It took is about an hour to get to the base, and an hour and a half to the top, but it was one of the hardest climbs I´ve done. It was all on dirt and there wasn´t a path, so for every step I took up, I ended up half a step back, slipping the wrong direction. When we got to the top though the views were stunning, and there was a restaurant at top that rotated 360 degrees so we had a view overlooking all of Bariloche.  We had a coffee and then were rushed out of the place because the only way down, a chairlift, was closing at the random time of 2:50 pm. We ran and got our tickets and went on little bumper car ski lifts down the mountain back to town. Very fun day, very good workout, I am ending the day with a big ice cream from Rapa Nui to celebrate! Tomorrow I head to Pucon, Chile, where I plan to stay for 5 days - 1 week. I´m not so sure how long my bus ride there actually is, I had heard it was about 7-8 hours but my bus ticket doesn´t really seem to tell me much information.  Either way, it should be a few degrees warmer there which I´m really looking forward to!

El Chalten

I woke up at 6:30 this morning to catch my bus to El Chalten. It is the youngest Argentinean town, established in 1989.  It's basically a tiny town that was built up as a base to 2 mountains in the area, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. I had wanted to come to El Chalten on a day trip but I was recommended not to because you need time to spend hiking both mountains.
When I got off the bus, I found out that I wasn't able to take a bus out on Wednesday. The bus only runs on Tuesday's and Thursdays, so now instead I am taking a 30 hour ride back to El Calafate, then up to Bariloche. This should be interesting.   It's kind of funny how off the beaten path this place is. The town has about 5 streets. A lot of people come here and camp in the mountains. I got to the hostel, dropped my stuff off (plus got them to do my laundry for $4!) and headed to the first mountain. To get out of the town was a little confusing, there were just signs with arrows so I had to assume I was going the right way!  This hike was 6 hours roundtrip, through woods and past a river, with snow covered mountains in the background and these awesome trees where some were totally dead next to trees that were fully bloomed and beautiful. At the Laguna Torre, the end point for the hike, all of a sudden the path opened up to a lake with a glacier at the end, chunks of ice floating near the shore.  I sat down to eat lunch (an amazing empanada, I have to find this place again tomorrow!) and met 3 people who were up here camping for a few days.

I was so happy to have someone to talk to, since I hadn't met anyone at the hostel to go with in the 10 seconds I was there to check in. The girl was from Guyana and it was her first time camping. She tried to convince me to come with them, promising the boys would take care of everything, but I don't think I would enjoy camping plus it's really cold here!! One of the guys has been on the road for 18 moths now. I asked him how he's able to do that and he said he volunteers here and there and the camping is super cheap once you have the equipment. If I think it's rough living out of a backpack I cam only imagine living under a tent! I don't understand where he showers or like charges his camera. It seems a lot of people do it though. The most popular hike down here is the Paine Circuit, or W, in the Torres del Paine in Chili. It's a 5-7 day hike, all camping. It's supposed to be amazing but I don't think I'd be able to handle it. Or enjoy it. I mean I know I´m backpacking and all but theres a difference between living out of a backpack and not showering for 5 days. I wandered the 3 streets of town that night, and even though I liked the hiking I kind of wished I had gone up to Bariloche to start to head toward weather that will stop giving me frostbite!

El Chalten, Day 2
I was so unlucky with the weather today. It was freezing when I woke up, and the sky was overcast. The guy at the hostel recommended me waiting another day to climb Fitz Roy since he said I wouldn't be able to see anything from the top, but I have a bus ticket for tomorrow so there was no other option. Finding lunch to bring along on these hikes has been a challenge in itself. All of the breakfasts have been bread and cereal. Because of the gluten deal, I try not to eat too much bread, because I only have about 30 pills with me to last the whole trip. So for lunch everyone brings sandwiches.  I´d be okay bringing a sandwich and eating the middle only, but the only option I'm given is ham and cheese. Since Charlottes Web was my favorite book growing up I have big issues with eating anything coming from a pig, so I won't eat ham. I don't know why they're so big on ham and cheese here. No matter what you order they try to put ham in it. My omelet at breakfast, the empanadas - I´m surprised my alfajores didnt have ham in it! I don't even see where they're getting all these pigs from since they specialize in carne de vaca, the meat of a cow.  But there's no such thing as roast beef or turkey, or even just cheese sandwiches in Patagonia, so I'm out of luck. The fruit isn't in season either so all I had for my 8 hour hike today was my daily alfajore cookie and a yogurt. Not a smart idea.
I set out for the Fitz Roy hike and about an hour in found a British woman to hike with. She somehow was an even faster walker than me and I had to run on the trail to keep up with her. Until she fell off a little bridge and got soaked and covered in reddish brown mud water. And broke her camera. Then we slowed down. At the 3rd hour, we got to the last stop before the 500 meter (1500 foot) vertical ascent up rocks.
There was a sign saying not to go if you weren't an experienced climber, didn't have hiking boots or it was raining or snowing because the rocks get slippery. It had started to snow and was impossible to even see anything because of the fog surrounding the mountain, but she wanted to keep going so I went along. Halfway up, it was so slippery that I actually thought I was going to fall off the mountain. We ran into a few people coming down that said the snow was accumulating fast at top and people couldnt walk! They also said you couldn´t see a thing from the top. At that point I left Allison and joined the group heading back down the mountain. I made it back in one piece, and am treating myself to so many alfajores as a reward! As an added bonus, one of the girls coming down was really nice and wound up being in my hostel, so we got dinner (more empanadas from my favorite bakery!) and passed out early because, well - 14 hours of hiking in 2 days - I've earned it!!! It will be nice to sit tomorrow on the bus and just read and watch some really bad spanish-subtitled movies. I have 30 hours, so if I can read for 15 of them and sleep the rest, that would be amazing! On to Bariloche!